BEWARE! These RO/DI Water Mistakes Are Sending $$ Down The Drain! Your Reef Tank Deserves Better.
BEWARE! These RO/DI Water Mistakes Are Sending $$ Down The Drain! Your Reef Tank Deserves Better.
BEWARE! These RO/DI Water Mistakes Are Sending $$ Down The Drain! Your Reef Tank Deserves Better.
[ Music] all right today it’s the top 30 rodi plains you heard it right 30 we’re gonna exit rapid fervour there’s so many mistakes out there i bet you most of you have formed like at least 15 of these so they have it all the time yeah perfectly uh but we’ve been in the business of ro for a long time and we have learned a lot from our mistakes where today we’re going to teach you what those are all right so this i probably did wrong for the first 10 years of reefing and then i found out yeah the mistake here is uh not realizing that the tds probe in line needs to be placed properly in the fitting in order for it to work properly water has to pass through the goal post for it to get an electrical conductivity reading and if you didn’t open it up you wouldn’t even know that you had it wrong in the first place so you should probably go check exactly look at yours and make sure it’s installed correctly and uh precisely pay it a 90 unit turn if it isn’t yeah but again the sea needs to pass through the pole if it is in parallel it’s just going to give you the wrong say so if you’re getting a three and you think it’s zero or you’re getting a zero and you think it’s three that might be one the reason why so go ahead and check it in the instructions or even on their website but you’ll realize the actual little documentation how to make love but the irrigate when you gather it out should clearly be going through the two goal announces on the electrode not parallel to it okay so closely related that is number two now yeah this is uh that the tds probe needs the t fitting in order for it to work properly so it’s not one that you can precisely dip in a bucket of liquid and get a proper reading yeah you cannot take this examination out of the tee and trough it and expect to get an accurate reading that’s because they calibrate them through the tee and the t perfectly reforms the fittings or the deciphers preferably and i know this because i went through a whole lot of troubleshooting before checking with hm digital and then they told me afterward that is gauged that route and it utterly reforms the see so you cannot use this examination outside of the fitting to get an accurate reading all right so list three is a moderately brand-new thing yeah the mistake here is uh not taking full advantage of ro tubing clips so elegant aquatics has singles redoubles triples quadruples i entail if you really want to spice up your rodi looking courses and construct them seem merely fan i mean they have times for the valves clips for the hoses clips for the fittings and it simply makes it looks really nice a friend of mine formerly said a clean-living install is a safe install yeah right and i totally agree with that so if you can route all these perfect you can make sure that there’s no crouches they don’t get caught on anything when you open the door making other paraphernalium out uh it does seem clean-living and obviously be available for like ro or not just ro applications but also for dosing threads oh yeah but there’s clips for the the bullet valve there’s excerpts for everything so you can route it neat and clean all right so count four is something i’ve gotten a great deal of phone calls over the years about yeah the mistake here is assuming that your well water is uh better or you are familiar with little contaminated than your city spray and disallowing some disinfectants are able to be worse something that you found out this last year yeah you know it’s not better or worse you time never know it could be really your domain could have arsenic in it it is feasible have copper in it can have any metal or anything that’s in the spray in your ground going to have phosphate in it and nitrate and silica is super common it can have you know herbicides and pesticides from farm runoff so whatever’s in your field can actually be in the groundwater as well so just think about it when you’re place that in and related to that actually is another question which is you know do i need to use carbon blocks on well water because i don’t have disinfectants and the answer is yes because all those herbicides and pesticides anything else that’s in the irrigate it’s going to help remove those as well all right so amount five pretty closely related to that direct inverse actually and that’s assuming that your tap water is better than well water and again here you know we’re talking about well waters having these massive aquifers that cover maybe three four different countries uh but then it’s discussed locally by your metropolitan and some cities use higher quantities of antiseptics than others so it’s worth checking yeah “youve never” truly know and like so in minneapolis here we various kinds of like are dependent on how clean the mississippi river is at the time true uh you know so it alters all the time so one of the really big things here is city water versus or municipal ply water rather versus well water certainly doesn’t make a difference every single one of these water supplies is different and just knowing that one single thing truly doesn’t have an impact on the quality of the liquid for sure okay so list six goes against what most people think for sure yeah the mistake is uh assuming that low-spirited tds exactly means high quality water from you are familiar with from your tap like minneapolis 130 tds coming out of our sound but not undoubtedly the mo the cleanest liquid because there’s other things in there that don’t register as tds yeah so most of it is actually things we don’t want even really the 100 tds there’s like there’s 10 proportions per million silica in there there’s three characters per millis per million uh chlorine there’s almost one side per million ammonia in the sea and so when you include it up like 20 percent of what’s in there we really don’t want to have in the barrel conversation to that is at my house i have 500 proportions per million tds water but the majority of members of that’s just like bicarbonate and calcium so like not as dangerous to the tank i still want to strip that stuff out but it doesn’t really aim low-spirited tds doesn’t mean better because some of those things are actually truly detrimental to the tank all right so count seven is something i was told to done anything wrong from the beginning i probably did it wrong for the first few years until i learned how to do this better yeah the mistake on this one is changing out your di canister after it starts to register as tds on the broad outlines so you know that tds could be made up of a whole bunch of things you don’t want your barrel ammonia silica and there is a really easy fix so you can catch it uh before monitoring the whole color change add a second canister yeah so here’s the spate is instinct says i want to get the most life out of it right so i’ll use it until i get one and one’s no big deal wrong and the above reasons for that is because it isn’t just a mix of calcium and carbonate or bicarbonate at that point it’s actually whatever this cartridge had the least affinity for and it creates little bands that get bigger and bigger and bigger and so at the top the least affinity is usually ammonia and then the second one is off in silica and truly the a lot of the things we don’t want in the cistern the most are actually the weakest affinity and so it creates that party and you’re purging ammonia then you demand one or two or three personas per million ammonia going into the tank you don’t want that so make sure to change it before it gets the top maybe a half inch and if you’re not real careful about it as randy said have two di resins because the second one will catch it and you don’t have to worry about it as much all right so digit eight well received posting this on ask beers tv yesterday yeah i saw the same one and it’s letting your sediment filter get perfectly clogged dark caked the whole way through where you think you’re doing some good but actually the reduction in pressure conveys reduction in efficiency yeah so you might thought well hey man i got a lot of money out of this when i give it get that caked it’s not true uh what what you did is actually earmark the sediment crowd or the carbon blocks after it to get blocked too early which are way more expensive this is just a few dollars some of those things can be as much as 20 bucks so if you got 40 in filters but you squandered to save the three dollar filter no good but most importantly than that is often the fact that when this goes clotted the pressure goes down the performance of the ro membrane goes down meaning you get a lot more waste water and you actually have a way lower abandonment proportion which means that you’re sending higher tds water into your di resin and expending that much faster which is also more expensive so this little few dollar filter are really vary the performance of all of them and something that you should change out more frequently and not let it time get fully caked and choke the system all right so quantity nine likewise related to pressure yeah this uh mistake is letting your pressure get under 50 psi 50 psi’s that operating collection where you’re going to get a balance of you know efficiency waste water through what not through but if you allow that to get clear like your sediment filter to get clogged and lower that pressure you’re degrade the efficiency the rest of the lane through uh but this is something that we did a scrupulou bst brstv investigates evaluation on where greater pressure equaled better productivity so if you go down to like 30 psi you may see like you know only 85 abandonment which means you’re just burning through di resin waste waters through like through the snout and you’re also probably instead of 75 gallons a epoch displaying like 15. So it really really goes down fast when you go below 50. you are familiar with 40 or 45 is about the threshold of where i wouldn’t start any lower but a booster gush can actually get you water faster it will increase the efficiency of the system it will reduce di resin consumption and often pay for itself really fast but if you go even higher than 50 “youre seeing” all of the performance metrics scale up and if you want to see that brs tv investigates on it only search for the pressure in rodi all right so numeral 10 probably should have been number one mistake is not exercising a swim valve 12 portion of rig we’ve harped on throughout all of anything anytime we are speaking of rodi to save your floors yeah so there’s two camps here one you bought it from the beginning and you never filled your floor or two you didn’t and you did uh everybody that doesn’t use a float valve will eventually submerge their floor so don’t be that person you can just buy the float valve instead of trying to remember when to come back hours later to turn it off it will do it for you all right so list 11 something i’ve also read a million phone calls on yeah the mistake is experimenting your tds immediately after you turn on the system and it’s just tds pussyfoot and all of us so you’ve heard about it and you’re wondering what it is basically if you come back in 5-10 minutes the tds will be leveled out and then take your reading yeah so when irrigate sits inside the membrane here it will balance out with zero on one side or one and a hundred on the other a long enough timeline it’ll be 50 50. Yeah so it’s not surprising that when you turn it on it’s actually 10 tds right initiated with and it will slowly go down so make sure you cause it 10 times or so before you make your first reading all right so crowd 12 is actually some we sell a answer for but i don’t think we should the mistake is attempting to calibrate your tds meter and we just told you in mistake one and two that this thing exclusively works one way and that’s in a fitting and turned a specific way in which case you’re not going to get a proper reading trying to calibrate it in a bottle yeah so a lot of parties will buy a little calibration solution i think it says like 300 some tds on it and then dip it in there assuming that that is going to give an accurate reading and it doesn’t worse yet they calibrate to that and will give you the impression it did but it did not so it’s not reading that right and if you read the instructions for it you actually need to situated it back in the fitting to get an actual reading and find a way to get spray or the solution to actually flow through the fitting to calibrate it right this is a little bit more more complex than most people are going to do in fact if accuracy is really important getting a brand-new tds meter is probably a better bet because most likely you’re going to hurt the accuracy of the speak by calibrating more than perfected all right so multitude 13 we sell equipment for this because it’s just the action that people do it yeah but you probably shouldn’t yeah the mistake here is changing the sediment filter and the carbon blocks at the same time and inherently i want to change them all if you gives people a gear but they don’t wear off the same no they don’t so i’d say 90 percent of people do they deepen all the filter filters at once maybe not the di resin it’s just not the way to do it so convert out the sediment filter as it gets choked you should have a pressure gauge on the system that travels after the sediment filter if you meet the pressure go down it’s because it go blocked change it out the carbon blocks have a totally different life structure on them and if you have chlorine like or chloramines like most people do you can actually only evaluation it with a little chlorine strip and find out if it’s still pulling out all of the disinfectant but other than that there’s also volumizers to figure out how much water is spurted through it yeah but they don’t actually wear upon at the same rate so you can actually replace them at different times all right so list 14 this used to be kind of rare but not really anymore no it’s uh not considering the upgrade gears for the irrigate savers so basically just lending on a second ro membrane so 75 and 75 100 100 some bags 150 150 but effectively what you’re trying to do is save spray and that means more irrigate product yeah so i don’t know anybody who doesn’t want twice as fast water and i don’t know anybody who doesn’t want to reduce the amount of wastewater they’re producing as well you can do that with a second membrane and the road that this works is you’re going to feed the waste water out of the first membrane into the feed of the second membrane and that might not sound like like a great idea however if you only have 100 tds water to begin with the waste water from this one will be about 120 and so genuinely not a big deal to feed it into that one in fact you is a lot of efficiency gains all right so digit 15 i bet you something that merely about 10 percentage of reefers know yeah the mistake is not considering two carbon blocks instead of one and that’s just comes down to an efficiency thing again too where you know they have a lifespan and over that trend of that lifespan they start to let a little chlorine maybe some chlorine represents through and why not got a second one there to capture what it’s giving through effectively you know extending the life of the firstly one yeah when you assure a filter you just assume it’s a hundred percentage and the reality is they’re not and they will over time start to leak some through so a great deal of the carbon blocks out there actually the end of life is rated when it allows 50 percent of the disinfectant through which is obviously not a standard that we want maybe that’s okay for drinking water but it’s not okay for the reef container and so with something like the universal block it’s actually rated for only 15 breakthrough but even then when you have two it undoubtedly takes the 15 percent from here and brings it down to zero even when this one is fully expended so it allows you to really get the maximum life out of the first filter and eventually actually save money alright so amount 16 i bet you exclusively five percent of reavers know maybe even less that’s uh that’s the mistake of not realizing that carbon blocks actually recharge themselves during those intermittent off experiences so you know as soon as i turn the system on getting immense productivity out of my carbon block and then it gradually depe depletes over term but you know when i shut my closed it off and is coming to it i’ll probably get just as good effectivenes right in the beginning yeah so off repetitions actually do increase performance when you go to turn it back on so the takeaway from this is that if you do exam your carbon blocks with say a chlorine strip don’t measure it like claim when you turn it on experiment it near when your bin is almost all the way full to get the most accurate depiction of when to change out your blocks all right so figure 17 was actually something i consider with my first system but ultimately scaped yeah this isn’t seeing the mistake of buying a exerted method and specifically as it relates to the filters automatically my thought says i should probably just change out all the filters but it goes beyond merely you are familiar with not trusting whether the filters are fresh brand new and whether they still have life left in them yeah so a used structure is almost always been sitting around somebody’s garage for years and utterly all of the filters need to be changed right so after you do the math on how much all those filters cost and then too that most of the seals are probably dried up too and they need lubrication or deleted and replaced it’s just not worth it in most cases it’s always better to time buy a brand new system than it is to try to revive something that’s been sitting around for a long time all right so count 18 something that really isn’t very common here in minnesota but is in other governments yeah the warmer climates i am only i can lean my ro method outside and hooking it to the garden hose the mistake here is letting it smacked direct sunlight because there are things that can grow algae in your ocean and this is clear sunlight goes through it automated algae raise yeah if you have nitrogen or ammonia or phosphorous in your ocean and you have sunlight you will grow algae in these systems and you utterly don’t want that and certainly that exits for any light source not just sunlight make sure that you install it in a dark expanse to get best conduct all right so numeral 18 i have seen this one in minnesota yeah this is the opposite of that and that’s putting your ro plan somewhere it can freeze so i’ve seen this in people’s garages solely those that don’t have heated garages or warm enough to keep the water from freezing but even some of those longer threads uh rodi orders that run across your home or under the basement or what have you it is feasible freeze right up and here’s the thing is you may think that your garage is most the time warm enough yeah however somebody just opens up the garage opening and leaves it open one day boom freezes and outbursts all over the place it is a never-ending water supply at that point that is just spilling all over your live or garage so you don’t want that so never settled this where there’s any possibility that it could freeze all right so digit 20 this is kind of like a next rank reefer kind of thing to do but it is a mistake to not think about yeah the mistake is uh not considering the value of single bunked resins so almost all cases if they’re not the pro succession come with you know a mixed berthed resin both cation and anion in there but they sap at different proportions which you know if you’re trying to solve a very specific water difficulty separating those out are truly save you fund down the road yeah so the reason that they’re sold mingled like this is actually it acts really well and it’s really easy just watch the color change go to the top and it gets the top throw away and you have no problem however there’s probably a lot of the cation resin still billed in there that precisely goes kind of thrown out and squandered yeah so if you do them separate and only do the cation first and the anion resin after that what we’ll allow you to do is only replace each one when it’s fully expended and you’ll probably get twice the life out of your cat attention in resin for real all right so number 21 is various kinds of like a diy pro tip-off to save a assortment of money a lot of parties out there are buying specialized cartridges just for silica and they expense a lot more money than time doing it yourself yeah and that’s the mistake is not make it yourself because you know we talked about desegregated berthed or separating them out but we can get the best of both worlds by blending desegregated bunked with a little sliver of anion and you’ve got a silica cartridge yeah so a good deal of the silica removal cartridges and if you have a really big problem with silica low-grade ph irrigate is actually customarily associated with that so precisely employed an inch or two of the anion resin at the bottom and you now have your silica removal di resin at maybe a third the cost all right so figure 22 if you don’t like flushing this is the solution for you yeah the mistake is you already bought the booster run pack just go ahead and get the auto flush because it’s just an extra tool in your implement handbag and i don’t have to remember to turn the valve off and on yeah so if you wanted to do it exactly on its own you’d have to go buy the power brick you’d have to buy all the little ingredients for it but if you already have a booster pump on there you most likely have all the tools you need and it’s just a low-cost little auto blush method you can pop freedom in there and it does all of your flushing for you all right so count 23 is super quick but don’t do this yeah i’ve done it myself and that’s using knife and scissors to try to cut the ro tubing you really need a clean part that 45 angled or mutilated aspiration of the yarrow tubing really pass the discloses when you use anything to push it through like a scissors or a bayonet it gets little bits in the end and you can hurt the o-ring inside of the fitting and it could leak over meter only don’t get the little tubing trimmed air cutter it’s only a few bucks it’ll make a nice 45 measure tilt it’s clean and you’ll be leak-free all right so number 24 is just kind of where i terminated up after using all of them yeah the mistake here is not exercising murloc fittings and this is something that you you know we recognise course early on in making ro organizations that its quality fitting makes a high quality product in which case double o-rings is better than single o-rings when it comes to preventing seeps yeah so the double o-rings permits a little bit of influence to end up on the fitting go in one direct guidance or the other only makes a much easier to use leak-free solution for fitting and makes a really big difference to me because one little divulge on any of this stuff can do a lot of damage to your live alright so figure 25 i am willing to use them but i’m not willing to trust them and rightly so because the mistake here is trusting rodi solenoids and that’s a piece of moving or you know a moving case of paraphernalium inside on off on off hundreds and thousands of time maybe a year in which case it is prone to fail yeah they will fail they rarely last-place more than a year and it is the kind of thing that you should replace before it break-dance even though they’re not cheap and it’s just nature nature more expensive to deal with a failing than it is to replace these things when you know that it’s going to break you can put in all kinds of redundancies but the redundancies should be there for the emergency not as the primary wait for it to fail this will catch it because those things can fail too so if you’re going to rely on a solenoid on a never-ending water supply make sure to supersede it before it fails at least once a year all right so list 26 some people may know about it but i bet you less than one percent actually do it yeah the mistake here is not realizing that your waste water is tunable based off to seeing how clean-living or how dirty your water is you can actually change out the flow restrictor to get the best performance from your ro layer so yeah if you exclusively have 50 tds in your municipality water supply there’s not a whole lot of hardness in there you can probably crank the abandonment proportion down and you know this is a 550 but you may be able to bring it down all the way to four or even 300 and still get enough flush to keep the membrane clean however if you have 500 tds spray you may wish to do the opposite perhaps crank it up to 800 to keep the system clean-living and get the most life out of your membrane all right so list 27 is something a lot of parties actually ignore but once you’ve used one you’ll absolutely be happy with it yeah the mistake is not realizing the value of a three-way ball valve by far my favorite section of rodi paraphernalium out there because i can have one source of spray and separate not only split it into two other direction but i can choose when it goes to one of those tacks i just adoration this thing yeah without that in many cases you have a whole series or a serpent of different on off valves to be able to do it it’s not only more costly but you have to remember how to do it all just nice to have a really clean install to be able to switch where the flow from your rdi structure is going as well as just turn it off all right so multitude 28 this is a never-ending water supply depend where you framed it this is an awesome option yeah a mistake is not use some of these low-cost safety precautions with your ro like the watchdog and the flow lock they’re i mean they operate simply the protector roaring panic and the flow lock really shuts off spray when you need it to so the most common leak out of one of these things is either you use a scissors or a knife and you eschewed our previous fail or you simply didn’t crank the canister down relatively close-fisted fairly and it established a small leak that you may not know about yeah watchdog 10 horses or 12 bucks and it will designate it off for the purposes of an audible frighten saying hey you didn’t crank this thing down there’s a small leak and actually with the flow lock there’s even a tray that can go right underneath it and it will rally the liquid and went off a float valve it will automatically turn it off alright so 29 is actually another one of those areas where you get the wrong tool for the wrong position and it’s kind of frustrating there are some right works for this but in most cases it’s just not the privilege option yeah and this is stirring the mistake of using the write wording tds meter and relying that you have not made any wrongdoings in getting it infected and then trusting the results now a lot of times the phone calls would be i’m you know getting the tds in my sea and why doesn’t my ro organisation raise zero tds i’m getting two three four even more the reality is is one drop of salt water was either on the pen or in the container and actually almost nothing you can do can really get it off because i can’t gargle it with tap water and it’s just really really hard to get a neat clean reading out of using the write and that’s why most people use these in-line rhythms because the water’s flowing right through it there’s no chance of pollutant point reading and it’s just much much easier and way harder to mess up so figure 30 is actually a nature to save a lot of money but increase the performance of the system you already have yeah and the mistake here is not realizing that these are upgradable modular and i can time add on slice as i need to upgrade my structure uh you know if i start with a four theatre and i realise i need an extra carbon block boom i add an extra canister if i decide that uh you know i need more water yield i add on a ocean saver add-on so i can obstruct contributing on to this to tailor it to fit my specific needs yeah you want to add a di resin only get an empty container and add one on you can actually buy a bracket and make it like brand new yeah or you can just bolt it to the wall right next to it i want to take my four stage like a evaluate group that only has one sediment filter one carbon block add one of these before i gave the sediment filter in and now i can use both of those stages for carbon blocks so it’s really really easy to upgrade your system there’s no reason to go out there and buy a new one regardless of the brand that you probably have it will likely work you can change out some of the filters to today’s standards and then lend in what it is you like all right so if there is only one takeaway from this whole thing what is it for me it’s the fact that these are upgradeable i’m gonna do that last one that we are only did and just know that you can add on efficiency by adding on components and all i need to buy is one little portion at a time yeah for me it’s make sure to change your di resin before it’s amply expended so you don’t purge ammonia and silica into your tank and if you’re not the kind of person that will catch it in the last half inch or so make sure to use two resins so that the first one is sapped into the second one and you’ll never have that difficulty and you can actually get all the life out of the first one so if you’re wondering why you even use ro organizations we recently did a video and all the pollutant inputs in the cistern and freshwater is certainly one of them so you can go check that out and watch all the different areas where we’re putting stuff into the tank we don’t want to and we are able to evaded it
BEWARE! These RO/DI Water Mistakes Are Sending $$ Down The Drain! Your Reef Tank Deserves Better.
BEWARE! These RO/DI Water Mistakes Are Sending $$ Down The Drain! Your Reef Tank Deserves Better.
BEWARE! These RO/DI Water Mistakes Are Sending $$ Down The Drain! Your Reef Tank Deserves Better.
BEWARE! These RO/DI Water Mistakes Are Sending $$ Down The Drain! Your Reef Tank Deserves Better.
BEWARE! These RO/DI Water Mistakes Are Sending $$ Down The Drain! Your Reef Tank Deserves Better.